What to Look for When Shopping for Upholstered Furniture

Shopping for new upholstered furniture can be a daunting task.  The following information will help you make an informed decision.  Remember....some manufacturers today sell “from the outside in”....great looking styles and covers, but absolute junk underneath.  Be careful and be informed...quality in upholstered furniture starts “from the inside out”.  Ask lots of questions about construction...it’s important if you’re looking for long lasting furniture.

1)  The frame should be constructed of kiln dried hardwoods.  The use of hardwood and/or softwood laminates is acceptable when used in conjunction with solid hardwood components.  Joints should be glued and reinforced with dowels, screws or metal corner plates...the appropriate technique depends on the application.  Under no circumstances should you accept butt joint construction with nails.

2) Cushioning is a very important part of a quality sofa or chair.  Solid, contour-cut, virgin high density polyurethane foam should be used throughout, including arms, backs and seat cushions.  Never accept shredded foam in any form in your sofa or chair.  Polyurethane foam is classified by density factor which normally ranges from 1.0 to 4.0...this number signifies lbs. per cubic foot.  Upholstered furniture typically uses foam in the 1.5 to 3.5 range and quite often the densities are mixed in layers to achieve balance in comfort and longevity....typically, the higher the number the better the foam and the longer it will last.  Foam in back cushions and especially seat cushions is normally wrapped in polyester batting for initial softness and to protect the foam from direct contact with the upholstery cover.  Upper end upholstery may offer feather down as an optional top cushioning layer for the ultimate in softness.  When down is used the cushion assembly is normally inserted into a fitted jacket or bag to eliminate shifting of the feather blend filling and to deliver seating consistency.  Zippers are used for easy cover removal and hand fluffing if desired.

3)   Springs are the real workhorse of the sofa or chair.  Normally sinuous springs are used in starting to mid priced upholstery.  Coil springs are normally used in upper end upholstery and eight-way hand tied coil spring construction has been the standard in this category for years.  Connecting each coil spring to another at eight points with cord is a very expensive and very labor intensive process and in recent years a new technique has emerged.  The modular approach is the new standard and it involves eight-way machine tied coils using wire.  The wire does not break at the connection points like cord tends to do, and thus the whole assembly lasts much longer.  Both sinuous and coil systems are very comfortable.  Sometimes it’s hard to tell the difference depending on the foam cushioning that is used although coil springs tend to give a better ride or feel.  A general rule of thumb is that sofas below $1000 use sinuous springs and those above that price point use coil construction.

4)   Fabric should be chosen for looks and durability.  Has the fabric been wear tested for durability and if so, has it been coded as such.  The Wyzenbeek machine is one of the best ways to test durability/abrasion resistance.  The fabric is rubbed back and forth on the device by a rotating drum and the double rub counts are logged.  Normal wear characteristics are 15,000 double rubs, medium wear is 9,000 and light duty is 3,000.  This wear test cycle assumes a 10 year life span at these rates.  Always ask about fabric durability/abrasion resistance when shopping for new upholstered furniture.  If the salesperson can’t answer your question, walk away because they probably are not using wear tested fabrics.  Never accept anything less that a medium rating (9,000) on reclining furniture...it won’t hold up.

5)     When shopping for leather furniture, keep the following points in mind;
Leather outlasts fabric to 4 to 1.

It will not tear and is half again as strong as any fabric, even along the seam lines.

Unlike vinyl, it breathes and assume body temperature rapidly and is instantaneously comfortable.

It is a practical material, ideal for busy lifestyles.

Leather ages well because it does not wear like fabric covers.  Instead, fine leather acquires a fine natural patina and will become more supple over time.

Always look for 100% genuine top grain leather in areas that the customer will touch  when sitting.  The top grain is the top cut of the hide, about the thickness of a quarter (1/8").  This is the softest part of the hide.  The cuts below the top grain are called splits, and are used most of the time for non-contact areas of furniture, apparel, shoes, luggage, desk tops, etc.

Remember...some leathers cost more than others.  This has more to do with extra coloring and softening processes in the tannery that with the animal itself.

6)   Always ask about product warranties with regard to foam cushioning, frame parts, spring systems and labor.  If service is required, will it be provided through the selling dealer’s store or through the manufacturer.  Always ask up front so you will know the store’s and/or manufacturer’s limitations.